In Iain's tracks exploring the Dordogne

Wondering about the title of my post? Iain is our good friend, Iain Davidson, an archaeologist who is an expert in rock art. He knows the Dordogne region very well and recommended a number of 'must sees' for us.  However, I do have to confess that we didn't consult him when we booked our apartment at Eymet. While our apartment is perfect, Peter and I both agree that while everything in the village is within a five minute walk, we probably would stay a little closer to the 'the action'. Maybe Sarlat or, even Domme.

Thursday - Market Day in Eymet
Now, what have we been up to?  Thursday is market day in the main square of Eymet and, while a tiny village, its market is very impressive.  There were stalls of clothes, jewellery, cheeses, honey, deli (foie gras [spelt it right this time!], terrines, olives, dolmades) fresh fish, vegetables & fruit, butchers, pastries, you name it.

Market Day in Eymet

Lunch & dinner all purchased at market - the sweetest strawberries I've tasted, raspberries (nearly as sweet as Versailles), canard terrine, goats cheese, salmon & legume quiche, lamb, vegie & herb pastry, dolmades, chilli olives. 

Friday 3 November
Got away later than we hoped (we seem to have a problem waking up of a morning!)  Our plan for the day is to drive to Montignac (nearly 2 hrs away) to visit the Grotte de Lascaux (more later), Cadouin (Abbey) and St Cyprien.  We've (me actually)  got into the habit of getting in the car and with 30 mins stopped somewhere for coffee.  Cadouin was our first destination (recommended by our friend in the restaurant in Bergerac) and our first coffee.  We walked into a little bar just outside the Abbey. I commented to Peter that it looked a little dodgy but it turned out the coffee was excellent.  Pity I can't say the same about the toilet. I walked in, did a swift turn about because I thought it was a men's only until Peter checked it out & told me it was a squat toilet. I didn't realise they had them in France but in case you don't believe me:

Refer to above!

Cadouin bar (fantastic coffee, AWFUL toilet)

The Abbey's church and cloisters was more impressive. The cloister is being renovated and I can see will be lovely in six - 12 months.

Cadouin Cloister (sans lawn)

Cadouin Church's ceiling above altar - beautiful, isn't it?

We drove onto St Cyprien where we had lunch at an Italian restaurant. We chose it as it seemed to be full of workers. Another lovely village.

We then drove onto Montignac for a most amazing experience.  The Lascaux cave was discovered by teenagers in 1940. It is a cave full of rock art 17,000 years old. We saw the exact replica as  the original was closed to the public in the 1960's due to damage caused by CO2.  We couldn't have timed it better as five minutes after our arrival a one hour tour, in both French and English, commenced.  We weren't permitted to take photos but I can't tell you how amazed we were. The detail and colour of the drawings of horses, cattle and deer has to be seen to be believed.

Although we are in France, when we got back to Eymet we went to the local Italian. I had the yummiest veal & muchroom risotto - perfect. Peter was adventurous with carpaccio (extremely thin slices of raw beef).He loved it, I wasn't so fussed.

Saturday, 5th Nov
As usual, slow start to the day. On the road by 10am heading for Sarlat, Domme (basically same area as yesterday but one can only fit in so much in one day, can't one? One of the highlights of our travels has been the scenery, both natural (it's autumn and the leaves are at their peak) and man made. A good example is while we were toodling along the French countryside we drove into a little village and looked up and saw this castle perched on top of a cliff:

Beynac Castle in Beynac village

Closer view of Beynac castle 

As it was after 1pm, we decided to stop here for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Dordogne River. We had the set three course menu of goats cheese, apple salad; confit of duck & potatoes (no fat spared), followed by raspberry dessert.  It sounds a lot but it was just right & very tastey.  This photo was taken on the terrace of the restaurant:

Beynac restaurant

Next stop was Sarlat. We had been told by a number of people that you need a day to see Sarlat - we should have listened.  It was market day but by far more interesting were the little alleys and squares all over the place.  We found an art gallery where the artist was shopkeeper.  We couldn't resist her water colours & bought a tiny original and three of her prints. Very happy with ourselves. You would not believe the number of foie gras shops. They were everywhere.  I bought a couple of tins - one for us and one for Sybilla.

Foie Gras shop in Sarlat 

I could see that in summer Sarlat would be absolutely packed with tourists but at this time of year we could stroll around in comfort. Tourists?  I spit on you (French accent!)

Next stop was Domme.  How can I describe it? Not easy.  We saw it perched on top of a cliff and wove our way round the windy road until we came to a village square. And yet, we still had not arrived. We drove through a narrow arch (driving about 10km an hour) until the Dordogne River lay beneath us, about 1km away. What a sight! What a town/village!  We were sorry we didn't get there earlier, but there you are.
Here a a few shots of Domme, a village I would happily visit for a week or so in the future (and I'm not just saying that to please Iain!):

View of Dordogne River from Domme

A Domme Street (not in tourist season but shops still open at 5pm on a Saturday)

A deserted  square in Domme

 Sunday, 6th Nov - Day of rest
Last day in France.  Drove to Issigeac, 15 minutes drive away, for Sunday morning market.  Fantastic market but highlight was a little pottery shop I found a few blocks back from the main square. We bought two small plates from the potter, who couldn't speak English but still gave us a complimentary cheese knife holder to go with the plate. Lovely.  It was so nice to stroll (we've been doing quite a lot of strolling lately - rather than my usual striding).  That could explain why my jeans are quite snug - I kept on thinking they had shrunk in the drier but I suspect not.

Issigeac Market 

Fantastic old buildings in Issigeac

Tomorrow, off at 6.30 am in time to catch our 10.45am flight from Toulouse to Barcelona.  Simon Dolan has kindly offered to meet us before taking us to his beach house 30km north of Barcelona (not sure of internet access there). We will be there until we check into our old apartment in Gracia on Saturday.  Simon, and his wife Adella, will be leaving for Portugal on Tuesday and have generously offered the use of their beach house.  Peter has been asked to give a lecture at the ESADE Business School on Wed/Thurs (can't remember which!)

We both have mixed feelings on leaving France.  The food and wine have been lovely. Not to mention the countryside and the buildings, and the villages.  such history.  We have loved our time in  the Dordogne but are looking forward to catching up with friends in Barcelona. 

Yes well. Have had a lazy day sort of with Child Bride's inherited energy levels!!! She is a very carbon neutral power plant! But Dordogne is a region we both recommend and we both love. Suggest Spring or Autumn. Tourists not exactly welcome we have been told. We spit on them too!!!!

Off for a stroll through Eymet before retiring with a cigar and an Armagnac (local of course).

So if I depart this world from Foie Gras or Cannard overload or poisoning I make no apologies. Please no flowers. Just send a donation to the preservation of duck fat etc in Southern France. It's yummy.
Pierre and Child Bride. (99% Child Bride).