Sunday, November 13, 2011

Settling into the Barcelona Way of Life

Thursday, 10th November 


While Peter spent the day at ESADE in Saint Cugat preparing and presenting his three hour class (which went very well, by the way), I caught the train into Barcelona and did a bit of shopping, including finally finding a pair of jeans to replace the old pair I'd brought with me. These I got from the large department store, El Corte Ingles where I had obtained the visitor's card which provides 10% off most things in the store. This discount is also available at Macy's in New York and La Fayette in Paris. In addition to this, one can purchase items, usually must spend over about 90 Euro in the one store, and receive an additional 12-17%. This is for non-European residents only and makes shopping in Europe very affordable indeed.  


I spent the rest of the day happily walking through some of the many, many areas within central Barcelona. To stay safe, I use my common sense when walking in some areas of El Raval and, to some extent, El Born, which some may not find the most pleasant of areas.  If I look down a particular side alley (there are hundreds of them) and there is no one there, I don't go down. If I look and there are only men hanging around, I don't go there. If, on the other hand, there are families or women walking, I'll go there. Also, if there is a woman who is obviously a local, such as one with a shopping trolley (not the Coles kind), I pop behind her & off I go. 


As Peter's class didn't finish until about 6.30 pm and it is about a one hour train trip from Sant Cugat, and my feet were screaming (they're out of 'walking the streets of Barcelona' condition) at 6pm I decided to head to the 9th floor of  El Corte Ingles where there is a glassed in cafe overlooking Placa de Catalunya, which includes a lovely tiled square, two fountains and, at night, is well worth the visit. I waited for a table by the window and had a 3.50 euro glass of red - not bad at all. 


Now, I know most of my experiences have been negative so here's a slightly negative one.  Peter and I agreed to meet at a little bar called 'Tapas 24' on Passeig de Gracia.  We went there a number of times in 2009 and it became a bit of a favourite of ours.  I went earlier because you usually have to queue to get a seat - this time only about 15 mins.  Food was pretty good but the prices were a rip off and we decided it had become 'ripoffsville'. We met a nice woman who worked for the American airline, Delta, so we had a pleasant enough evening but won't be returning.  




Friday, 11th Nov


Friday was 'Mary showing Peter around Barca'.  When we were here in 2009 he spent most of the time at the University, and didn't get to see half of what I did. First I have to explain about the train station at Llavanerese. In addition to selling train tickets, the man 'behind the window' is also a barrista and barman. When catching the train on previously, we had ordered a cafe con leche (coffee with milk). So what happens? We walk in, settle our bags at a table, turn to the counter to order and there are two cafe con leches waiting for us. Not bad!  


Mary waiting patiently for the train & looking just a little relaxed
We got off at Metro stop Arc de Triomf (correct spelling) and walked down past the Bacelona's largest park, Parc de le Ciutadella. 


Barcelona's Arc de Triomph


We then walked down to the Port area and stopped for lunch at a cafe literally on the beach. We had a choice of four different size beers. Guess which one is mine and which is Peter's? 


Don't you love the sunnies? I keep on putting them in the outside pocket of the backpack, hoping that they might  be  a victim of the notorious pick-pockets. No such luck but will keep on trying.

Some people were swimming in the surf but unfortunately I didn't bring my cozzies. 



I was trying to take a photo of the two of us but unsuccessful (too many nostrals!)  A couple offered to take our photo & we chose to believe they wouldn't run off with our camera. They didn't.

Next stop was the Picasso Museum. It was one museum I didn't visit last time and we were both very impressed.  It is so much more than just his later work, which I happen to love. It is in chronological order starting from his works as a 14year old - what a talent. What a genius. 


After quite a bit of strolling through El Born, including checking what performances were on at the Palau (Palau de la Musica Catalana) - a must see  in Barcelona, we came across a small bar called Menage a Trois near Placa Catalunya. What a great little find. All tables outside were full but thought it worth a look inside. We sat at the bar & ordered a few tapas & wines while watching and talking to the barmen. Food was brilliant & cost a fraction of what Tapas 24 cost the previous night. We left with full tummies and smiles on our faces, happy with our new find. 


Saturday, 12th Nov


Today's the day. Back to our old stomping ground in Gracia. We have booked the same apartment as we had in 2009. After checking in, and befoe unpacking, we head off to Don Teo, the cafe I visited daily in 2009, for breakfast.  I loaded a copy of this photo on my desktop in case I needed it to jog their memory of who are.


Left to right, P and M  with Vincence & his brother Albert (pronounced 'Albairt')  
So, picture us. We're very excited about being back in Graciaand we walk in to Don Teo Cafe. Albert, who was so kind & friendly to us in '09 and has a great sense of humour, sees us, clutches his heart and says 'No, it can't be true.. am I dreaming? No, it's Peter and Mary'.  We couldn't believe it! We both were soo close to tears at the warm reception we received from both Albert and his brother (the proprietor). 


I order my favourite, zucchini omellette but receive a 'tasting plate' of mushroom croquette, capsicum omelette, zucchini omelette, & tomato bread (toast bread with 'mooshed' tomato & olive oil. When we have accepted Albert's invitation to go to dinner with him and his fiance, Diana, we ask for the bill. He gets his calculator and presses lots of buttons and then show how much we owe '0'!  Vincence indicates that it is like we have had lunch at his home (unlike Albert, he speaks very little English). We left on cloud nine. 


We have agreed that Albert will collect us at 9pm for our 9.30pm reservation (a little early by Spanish standards). In fact, by the time we reach the restaurant 'away from the tourists' it is closer to 10pm and there is only one other table occupied at this time.  Within half an hour it is full.  


We agree that we are happy for Albert and Diana (pronounced Deeanna to choose the food and wine.  They order a number of tapas which we all share, including artichoke chips, tempura baby vegetables, very rare tuna with soy & puffed rice, foie gras cubes coated in white chocolate (sounds weird but it worked), whole baby calamari, lobster & prawn salad, and, of course, tomato bread.


Tomato bread (back), artichoke chips (left), tuna (right), foie gras  in white chocolate (front)

We had a lovely evening and found both Albert and Diana great company. They are both in their mid 30s and intend to marry in the next couple of years. 


Out to dinner with Diana and Albert
We got home from dinner about 1.30 am. We'd had such a nice night we didn't feel tired but looked forward to a nice sleep in Sunday morning.


Sunday, 13th Nov (over to Peter)...

Yes thank you Miss Barcelona,
Sunday was a sleep in and it has been wet all day. We have been house bound apart from a brief metro ride into town to have a look see. Tourists few and far between and La Rambla looked bleak and boring. Imagine that if you have ever been there!!!!


We Woked to Work for lunch (telephone booth size Asian restaurant) and had enjoyed their food last time and it is still on the money for quickest and tastiest stir fry this side of Mayfield Avenue. Bucket of steaming chicken or beef and veggies and noodles and a cold Estrella - pretty damn good. All cold drinks are 1.50 euro, whether it is water, soft drink or beer. 


Evening here but listening to Adam Spencer interview Stevie Nicks Monday morning Australian time via ABC streaming (God Bless the ABC).


Helen Arthurson and Iain Davidson arrive this week and we are planning a dinner with Simon Dolan and his partner Adela on Wednseday with Helen and Iain if possible. December is coming fast. Faster actually. The rest of this trip is still a bit fuzzy as we had so many goals and dreams for the adventure so far. And they have all met or exceeded expectations. Last night's dinner was such a surprise and an emotional time with people we have only met on very few occasions yet who we feel close to. If they get married (as we are urging) it would be no small thing to say we would move mountains to be present. Some people just have a "presence" of goodness and fit and Diana and Albert are that.


OK. Supposed to be walking in the hills overlooking Barcelona with Scott Moodie (Minnesota) and Juan Ji Bao (China) tomorrow and hope rain holds off. Peter.





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