Thursday, November 14, 2013

Avignon to Vienne to Barcelona

As we were to catch a flight from Lyon to Barcelona today, we decided to leave Avignon a day early and stay over in Vienne, half an hour south of Lyon.

Before heading off we walked over two bridges of the Rhone to the medieval village of Villeneuve lez Avignon. The village holds the greatest number of historical buildings in Europe! We visited Fort Saint-Andre:
Fort Saint Andre
Over to Peter for a description of our visit:
Merci Mary. Well we walked from Avignon across the two branches of the Rhone in force 8 wind. Hardy Australians alone in this pursuit. Rugged up a stroll along the Rhone for a time then a steep climb to the Fort. It's a big fort. The entrance is through the twin turrets you so top right of the picture. As with many buildings in France the fort commenced construction in the 1400's and evolved in many forms.
It's location as with almost all European buildings of this type was deliberate to maximise television reception and to keep out the bad guys. The bad guys (as they tend to) were from many sources including French, English and other groups of power hungry low lifes. We spit on them and their ancestors smell of elderberries.
Anyhow. V impressive remains that suggest while location location location is paramount for forts etc living conditions were still relatively primitive. The two drop toilets would have provided both comfort and a thrill for users. Note to all. Do not walk under the turrets of forts as that is where the privy opens.

mmm, thanks Peter.

When checking out of the apartment I noticed that Marie, our host, was suddenly upset after reading an email. When I asked if she was OK, she started to cry (she had very little English and used Google Translation for her communication). She typed that her husband, Pierre, had died from cancer. It was heartbreaking and a very sad end to our stay in Avignon.

We arrived in Vienne about 4.30 pm. Peter had found a B & B that rated really well on Trip Adviser, called Au Bois de Massier about 3km from the town. The B & B is run by a couple, Eduard & Pascale.
Pascale, Mary & Eduard
The welcome we received was like no other. Eduard met us outside and assisted us with parking and carrying bags.  We then met Pascale, who was sooo welcoming!! We heard him before we saw him & his exuberance and passion for service and quality were wonderful.  After choosing one of two rooms available, we were provided with a 'welcoming drink' of Chardonnay & Cassis. As the B & B was out of town, we had arranged for an evening meal to be prepared. Well, it was definitely the gastronomic highlight of our trip so far.  Pascale was the chef and he prepared the following:
 
champignon, bacon & chardonnay soufflé - perfecto!
 
Duck breast with foie gras sauce, potato gratin & ratatouille
Eduard advised us that there would be a cheese platter would be served before dessert. We requested a petite platter - Eduard presented this with a mischievous smile:
 

'Petite' cheese selection
  
All the cheeses in the ceramic bowls were from the region. We tried every cheese & thought how much Iain would have enjoyed the experience.

I'm not sure how but we both had room for the dessert - it was a chocolate gateau (not too sweet), with layer of nougat cream through the centre, served with vanilla icecream (not Streets) and a sweet/creamy .. mixure (I'll have to check with the Garrauds what it would be).  the meal was absolutely stupendous!

Chocolate Gateau
Even our fellow guests were extremely friendly. There were two French teachers from Germany, Stephie and ??  Stephie had assisted Pascale with English when Peter phoned to make the reservation.  Pascale now refers to the language he speaks as 'Stephie', not 'English'.

At breakfast we met two businessmen from Belgium. Again, very friendly and interested in Australia. As Belgium has qualified for the World cup, we have decided that if (when) Australia is knocked out, we will be cheering for Belgium.

After a good night sleep and a relatively small breakfast (even though we were offered 'the works', we headed off to Lyon airport to catch our flight to Barcelona (just a little bit excited).

We have booked the apartment next door to where we have previously stayed. For the same money, it has three bedrooms on two levels and is much larger. It also has two terraces - one facing the city & Mediterranean, the other facing the mountains. We feel like we're home.  Within an hour of arriving we visited our good friends at Don Teo Cafeteria and have arranged to spend Sunday lunch with Albert and Diana.

We went for a stroll through the streets of Gracia before having dinner at a little Catalan bar - prawns, squid, anchovies & a lentil & veggie soup. The place was packed and the two staff (as Peter would say) worked their freckle off.

Walking back to our apartment at about 10.30 pm, the square below was only one of three or four we passed that was full of people of all ages.


 
 
 
 

 
 
 


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